Temples, Trees, and Water Fights: My Month in Cambodia

We started off our Cambodian adventure in the capital city, Phnom Penh. We did a few walking tours and explored night markets, but the most unforgettable experiences were visiting the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek and the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, also known as S-21.


The Killing Fields of Choeung Ek

In 1975, the Khmer Rouge (communists) came to Phnom Penh and started forcing everyone out of the city. Some people were sent to work on farms and labor camps, others were sent to the killing fields because of their intelligence, and some were accused of being traitors. Around 2 million people died from overwork, starvation, disease, and the killing fields.

We visited Choeung Ek, the most well-known of the Killing Fields, located about 17 km south of Phnom Penh. This site was once an orchard, but between 1975 and 1979, it became a place where over 8,000 people were executed and buried in mass graves. Many of the victims were former prisoners from the S-21 prison.

Walking through Choeung Ek was chilling. We saw the Buddhist memorial stupa, a tall tower filled with over 5,000 human skulls, some of which showed signs of trauma. The stupa has glass sides, so you can see the skulls stacked inside. It’s a powerful reminder of the atrocities that happened here.

Around the site, there are pits where the mass graves were excavated. Even today, after heavy rains, bones and clothing fragments sometimes surface from the ground. We could see pieces of bones still in the ground as we silently walked through the site. It’s a stark reminder of the lives lost.

One of the most disturbing sights was the “Killing Tree”, where executioners would kill children by smashing them against the trunk before throwing their bodies into the nearby pit. It’s hard to imagine such cruelty, but it’s important to learn about these events to ensure they never happen again.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21)

After the Killing Fields, we returned to Phnom Phen to visit the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, which was once a high school before the Khmer Rouge turned it into Security Prison 21 (S-21). Between 1975 and 1979, this place became one of the most notorious prisons in Cambodia.

Walking through the old classrooms, we saw tiny brick cells where prisoners were kept. The walls were covered with black-and-white photos of the people who were imprisoned there. Out of the estimated 20,000 people who were detained at S-21, only 12 are known to have survived.

One of the most shocking parts was seeing the rusted bed frames with shackles still attached. In some rooms, there were photographs showing how the rooms looked when the Vietnamese army discovered the prison in 1979.

Even though it was a very sad and heavy experience, visiting S-21 helped me understand more about Cambodia’s history.

Fun Times in Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh wasn’t all serious stuff—we had a blast exploring the city’s fun side too! We spent the first afternoon on a walking tour which took us all around the center of Phnom Penh to see different monuments, the royal palace, a night market, and some temples. Another evening, we visited the Phnom Penh Night Market, which was buzzing with energy. We sat on mats under the stars, choosing plates of sizzling noodle and grilled meats. The best part? Sipping on fresh sugarcane juice that was crushed right there at the stall—it was super sweet, green, and refreshing!

Another highlight was taking a night cruise on the Mekong River. As the sun set, we boarded one of the large wooden boats docked on the Mekong river. The hour cruise started as the city lights sparkled, and we got to see the Royal Palace and other landmarks glowing in the dark. It was a great way to see the city without a million people everywhere.

Getting around the city was fun too—we loved hopping into colorful tuk-tuks, the three-wheeled taxis that zoom through traffic. It is amazing how they slip through the traffic without getting into crashes. We couldn’t get enough of the delicious Cambodian food and my mom even tried the crickets and tarantulas (they eat insects and spiders in Cambodia). From savory noodles to local Lok Lak with lemon pepper sauce, every meal was delicious.

🏝️ Week 2: Koh Rong Island

This week, we traveled from the busy capital city of Phnom Penh to a small, quiet island called Koh Rong, off the southern coast of Cambodia. Koh Rong is the second-largest island in Cambodia, covering about 78 square kilometers, and it’s known for its pristine white sandy beaches and crystal-clear waters. 

We drove for about 4 hours to reach the coast, then hopped on a boat to the island. The boat ride was super bumpy—kind of like a Disneyland ride! But once we arrived, the water was so clear and perfect for swimming.
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My dad and I rented a motorcycle to explore the island. The roads were a mix of paved and dirt paths, making the ride feel like an adventure. We discovered hidden beaches and saw some local villages along the way.

One day, we went on a tour that included fishing, snorkeling, and swimming with bioluminescent plankton. Snorkeling was fun, but the coral was so close to the surface that it almost touched our feet! For fishing, we didn’t use regular fishing poles—instead, we had plastic cylinders with string attached. I caught one small fish, which was exciting and the chef even cooked it up as apart of our dinner even though it wasn’t a big catch.

After dinner, we went for a night swim to see the bioluminescence. It was amazing! We jumped into the ocean, even though it was pitch black, and when we hit the water- light exploded around us! When we moved our arms and legs in the water, tiny glowing dots surrounded us, like swimming through a sea of stars. It was my favorite part of the tour.

Koh Rong was such a cool place to visit, with its beautiful beaches, adventurous activities, and glowing night swims. I had a blast exploring the island!

After a week of splashing in the waves at Koh Rong, we packed our bags and set off for Battambang, a quiet town in Cambodia’s countryside. “Battambang” means “Lost Stick” in Khmer. Legend says a prince lost his magical staff here, and there’s even a statue of him holding a stick in the city! To get there, first, we had to return to the mainland so we jumped on a 45-minute speedboat—it was so bumpy that it had my mom looking for the life jackets (just in case!) ! Then came a 7-hour drive through the country. Thankfully, the roads were super smooth and on a modern highway.

After a long day of travel, we signed up for a tuk-tuk tour of the area for the next morning. First, we hopped on the famous Bamboo Train. It’s basically a flat bamboo platform on wheels with a small engine underneath. It was super hot and sunny, so we wrapped ourselves in colorful sarongs to protect from the sun. The ride was fast and bumpy, like a roller coaster made of bamboo! We zipped past green rice fields, saw cows chilling by the tracks, and even crossed a little wooden bridge over a river. Fun fact: these trains can go up to 30–40 km/h—faster than you’d think for something made of bamboo!

Later, we visited the Lakhan Killing Cave of Phnom Sampeau, a place with a very sad history. During the Khmer Rouge’s rule from 1975 to 1979, many people were killed here and their bodies were thrown into the caves. Inside, we saw glass cases filled with human skulls and bones—a haunting reminder of the past. It was eerie and made me think about how brave the Cambodian people are to remember and honor their history. As we left, hundreds of thousands of bats flew out of nearby caves at sunset, creating a black cloud in the sky.

Rat Barbecue
One of the most unique things we did was try rat barbecue! In Cambodia, especially in rural areas like Battambang, grilled field rats are a common snack . They eat healthy diets of rice and crops, so their meat is considered clean and tasty. We found a street vendor grilling them over charcoal, and I decided to get out of my comfort zone and try it out. The meat was juicy and tasted like chicken, especially with the spicy dipping sauce. When it came to the brain and liver… nope! I passed on those. Still, trying rat was an experience I’ll never forget.

After two exciting days in Battambang, it was time to head to our final destination: Siem Reap, the cultural capital of Cambodia and home to the famous Angkor Wat temples. I couldn’t wait to see what adventures awaited us there!

Final Week:  Siem Reap

Our main reason for visiting Siem Reap was to see the legendary Angkor Wat—the biggest temple complex in the world! It’s even larger than Karnak Temple in Egypt, which we visited earlier on our trip. Built in the 1100s by King Suryavarman II, Angkor Wat was originally a Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu but later became a Buddhist temple. The temple is massive—about 5,100 feet (1,554 meters) long and 4,498 feet (1,371 meters) wide—and is surrounded by a moat and a wall. The five towers at the center are designed to represent Mount Meru, the home of the gods in Hindu mythology.

One of the coolest things we learned is that Angkor Wat is so important to Cambodia that it’s featured on the national flag!

Another amazing temple we explored was Ta Prohm, also known as the “Tomb Raider Temple” because it was featured in the movie Lara Croft: Tomb Raider. This temple is famous for the giant trees growing out of its ruins. Their roots twist and turn over the stone walls, making it look like the jungle is swallowing the temple!

The trees are mostly strangler figs and silk-cotton trees, which have massive roots that snake over the temple walls. It’s like nature and history are hugging each other! Walking through Ta Prohm felt like stepping into a real-life adventure movie.

After 2 days of exploring temples, we booked a tour to visit the APOPO Visitor Center in Siem Reap and learned about the amazing “HeroRATs”—giant African pouched rats trained to sniff out landmines. These rats are super smart and have an incredible sense of smell, which helps them detect explosives buried underground. They are very lightweight so they can walk over landmines without setting them off, making them perfect for this dangerous job. At the center, we watched a live demonstration where a rat found a hidden landmine and signaled its location by scratching the ground. It was so cool to see them in action! We also learned about Magawa, one of the most famous HeroRATs, who sniffed out over 100 landmines in Cambodia during his five-year career. He even received a gold medal for his bravery! Visiting the APOPO center was both fun and educational, and it showed us how even small animals can make a big difference in making the world a safer place. 

Happy Khmer New Year!
With so much to do,  we didn’t realize that we arrived in Siem Reap right before the Khmer New Year, and it turned out to be one of my favorite experiences on this whole trip! The best part? A city-wide, giant water fight!

People lined the sidewalks armed with buckets of icy water, hoses, and water guns, ready to soak anyone passing by. On our first day, we didn’t expect it to be too crazy, so we went out to lunch and got completely drenched. After that, we bought our own water guns to join in the fun.

Some people stood on the sidewalks and dumped full buckets of water on random strangers as they walked or drove by. It was super hot outside, so getting wet actually felt really nice. Others rode around in trucks with huge jugs of water, spraying anyone they passed. It was wild!

Another big part of the celebration was baby powder. People would walk up to you and gently rub powder on your face as you walked by. By the end of the day, everyone was soaking wet and covered in white powder. It was messy, crazy, and super fun!

​Our month in Cambodia went by in a flash! Even though it was super hot the entire time, I really liked Cambodia. Each place we visited was different, and we got to do a lot of cool things. We learned about some really sad history, swam in sparkling water, and got soaked every day during the New Year. It was a fun few weeks and definitely one of the most exciting countries we’ve been to!